To say that Hungarians are masters of memory is perhaps to risk cliché. But I couldn't help being moved at their genius for preservation.
Here is the extraordinary statue of Imre Nagy, the leader of the breakaway Hungarian government, executed by the Russians two years later:
He gazes at the Parliament Building.
Here is a flag that commemorates the one from which the rebels ripped the Soviet emblem:
It flies next to a symbolic grave of people killed there.
Finally, here's a more humorous one, of Istvan Szechenyi, who endowed the Hungarian Academy of Sciences, and built the iconic Chain bridge in the centre of Budapest: